Nip Training Your Ferret

by Karen Marsh-Lovvorn, Rogue's Gallery Ferret Rescue

Ferrets may bite for various reasons. Like most young animals, kits nip in play, and some ferrets will bite out of aggression or fear because their only contact with humans has been painful or frightening. Almost all ferrets can be nip trained, as long as the trainer has patience and is willing to make the commitment to help the animal become a better pet.

There are many techniques for nip training ferrets, but regardless of technique, patience & consistency are key. How quickly they learn depends on temperament, how much time you spend with them and their previous experience with humans.. You WILL have to correct them repeatedly before they "get it," so don't despair. Nip training takes awhile, particularly in "hard core" cases, but is worth it! Reward your ferret often, with extra attention and maybe a treat now and then, and soon he will come to associate you with good things!

Before beginning to train your ferret, you must identify the reason for the biting. You may have to do a little "detective work", but getting an accurate history of the biter and observing his behavior will clue you in to his reasons for the behavior & help you identify the best way to work with him.

Play Biting

Very common in kits & other young animals, & characterized by playful "roughhousing" with you. Ferret skin is much tougher than human, & they engage each other by nipping & running away, dodging, hiding, & circling back for more - simply put, they're trying to treat you like another ferret & don't know they're hurting you. They often outgrow this by about a year old, but as with any young animal, it's best to set limits & establish guidelines before it becomes an ingrained behavior which is much harder to break when they're older (and can bite harder!).

Fear/Aggression Biting

Abuse - acts fearful of humans and meets contact attempts by hissing, drawing away, and/or attacking the "predator" (you). May be afraid of specific items (i.e. hands) or smells which were used lure him out for punishment. WARNING: Will bite HARD, often draw blood, & sometimes refuse to let go.

Poor socialization - general wariness and "wildness" around humans and other new things. May lash out if cornered, but generally avoids contact with people. Often nip and run away to escape from the perceived threat (you).

Deafness or other "invisible handicap" - deaf ferrets do not respond the same as hearing ferrets. Owners (particularly inexperienced ones) don't understand what's "wrong" with their pet, and may become frustrated with their inability to work with him. Therefore, these animals are often at high risk for abuse. May behave in either or both of the above ways.

Methods

"Gagging" - Gently push your finger (sideways) to the back of his mouth and firmly say "NO." Remove your finger when he tries to "spit it out." DO NOT push back too far or too hard or you may injure the ferret.
"Thumping" - Lightly "flick" the ferret on the nose & say "NO!" You do NOT have to go overboard - just enough to startle him. NEVER use this with fear biters or ferrets you suspect have been abused, because it could increase their fear of humans.
"Time-out" - Tell the ferret "NO", put him in the cage and ignore him for a few minutes. This works best if he can see other ferrets "outside" having fun and he can't!
Note: We use a combination of gagging or thumping and time out with play biters, particularly if the ferret is overstimulated and repeatedly bites. Usually on the "first offense" we just gag/thump him, but if he persists, we gag/thump and add "time out" until he calms down. When he is ready to be "nice" he can come out & play again.
"Scruffing & Dragging" - Grasp him firmly by the skin at the back of the neck and "drag" him gently back & forth on a flat surface several times, while repeating "NO" firmly, then release him. This is what mama ferret, and other ferrets trying to establish dominance would do, so from the ferret's point of view, it's the most "natural." We don't think this works as well with play biters because they run off before you can do it, and your attempts at "discipline" turns into a game of tag!
It is the ONLY technique we use with aggression or fear biters.

Working With Fear/Aggression Biters

Rogues Gallery came up with these guidelines with advice from ferret people, several years of experience with ferrets and other types of animals, common sense, and a healthy dose of trial & error! Others may have different suggestions, so please don't see this as the "final authority" or ONLY method of training. Every new ferret that comes in has it's own personality and is a new challenge, and we're always learning!

Have patience! Remember, this animal may be terrified, and to him, you are a monstrous ogre that is trying to hurt him. Keep him in a quiet & calm place if possible. Always speak calmly and softly, and try to avoid sudden movements and loud noises. "Warn" the ferret of your approach by speaking or touching him softly, or if he's deaf, lightly tapping the bars of the cage. Ferrets don't see well, and if you suddenly "appear" out of nowhere and startle him, he's likely to react defensively.

Get a pair of snug-fitting thin leather garden gloves or driving gloves, and wear at least one until the ferret is safe to handle barehanded. We prefer goatskin or calfskin because they're more flexible and you can get a better grip. When he bites your gloves (which he will), scruff and drag him & tell him "NO" in a firm voice. After you've disciplined him, pet him & reward him with a treat. If possible (if you feel safe doing it), put the treat on the back of your bare hand - where he can't get a grip - and he will soon come to associate the smell of the gloves with discipline and the smell of you with "good stuff." Repeat as often as needed.
Note: Please don't antagonize the ferret to try to "get him to bite"so you can "teach him a lesson." That's abuse, & anyone who does it is a bully who has no business working with animals!
Regularly reassure the ferret that everything's o.k. & he's safe. Be firm and consistent with your discipline and spend as much time as possible working with him. (We tend to get very attached to our "biters" because we spend a lot of time with them, & it's a wonderful thing to watch them develop from fearful "wild things" to the delightful little creatures they become once they get over their fear of humans!) Otherwise, treat the ferret the same as other ferrets in your home. He may even become more receptive to you if he sees that his friends are interacting with you without harm. Nip training a "hard core" fear biter may take months, so keep trying!
If you ARE bitten, remain calm. We know it's hard to do that when you have a ferret clinging to your hand by his teeth, but it's better than screaming & throwing him across the room, agitating him further and possibly injuring him! When he lets go, scruff & drag him as usual, then put him in time out until he can calm down & you can clean yourself up. Wash the wound with antiseptic soap and warm water, stop the bleeding & put a band-aid on it. Bites are painful, but they aren't life-threatening!
What if the ferret won't let go?
Ferrets' jaws are strong, & prying them apart can cause injury to the animal. Don't do it unless there is absolutely no other choice. You can:
- Place the fingers of your free hand on either side of the ferret's mouth at the base (jaw hinge) & apply firm, but steady pressure,
- Cover his nostrils with a finger from your free hand. With his mouth occupied with the finger he's biting, he'll have to let go to breathe.
- Try scruffing firmly with your free hand. Scruffing makes some of them yawn, & you can escape.
- Bite him back. Yes, really! Pinch the back of his neck with your teeth (don't break the skin, but make him feel it). He has tough skin there, & if all else has failed it may be your only option!

Good luck!

Karen can be reached at kem7@mail.duke.edu.

Last updated 13 January 1997.

Back to the main TriFL page.